Sunday, June 01, 2014
Recipe: "Kelp and Mushroom Relish" from "Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen" by Elizabeth Andoh
Rating: This is a good way to use up konbu which is left over from making dashi or other items.
Status: Made twice.
I love the way that Elizabeth Andoh's recipes frugally turn side products into new dishes. This recipe is wonderful because it turns a side product of making dashi, large pieces of rehydrated konbu (kelp), into a umami-filled side dish. The rehydrated konbu, leftover from dashi or other dishes, can be stored in a container in a closed container in the fridge for up to a week until you have collected enough to make this dish. Discard the kelp if it develops a sticky, pasty whitish substance on the surface.
This kelp and mushroom relish is also great as a filling for onigiri (form each rice ball from about 1 cup of hot cooked rice which has been mixed with a pinch of salt and use about 2 tsp of minced filling per rice ball).
The relish can be stored for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator.
The recipe is available at BeyondSalmon.
Some additional notes about the recipe:
Note that the surface area of the kelp refers to the surface area of the the dried kelp.
Either dried shitake mushrooms or enoki mushrooms is nice, but using a mixture of both types of mushrooms is wonderful. The dried shitake mushrooms absorb the sauce and turn into umami bombs, and the enoki mushrooms add texture. When using shitake mushrooms, I recommend adding it at the same time as the kelp so that the mushrooms have time to cook and absorb the sauce.
Boiling the kelp softens it (as well as removes any possible bacteria from kelp that has been stored in the fridge for up to a week), so you don't need to julienne the kelp too thinly. About the 1/4 inch thick is fine. In fact, if the kelp is julienned too thinly, it will break easily and the relish won't have enough texture. It's best if the kelp has a small amount of chewiness.
If you aren't sure how to estimate how much kelp you have, then only add part of of the soy sauce the to kelp. When the soy sauce partially reduces, taste and add more soy sauce it isn't salty enough. Also note that the dish gets a little saltier after it sits overnight in the fridge; the dish should have only a light soy sauce flavor when its done cooking.
The relish improves after it sits in the fridge overnight or for 1 or more days. I think this is because this gives the konbu time to release its flavor into the sauce (apparently the konbu still has lots of flavor to release), so the sauce gets even more umami.